Nick and I have just come back from spending some time in the Cape Verde Islands. Although this is billed by some as a ‘hot new destination’ I have to say that, with the exception of the resort island of Sal, most of the islands are not a destination for the faint hearted. We visited Sao Vicente, Sao Antau and Boa Vista. On these islands tourists are few and far between, people are very poor and the landscapes are harsh and dry. However the climate is wonderful, not varying much from 25 degrees at any time of the year, there is only one hour’s time difference from England. Additionally silence in general prevails, and although not conventionally scenic, the islands each have their own unique beauty.
The capital of Sao Vicente, Mindelo, is quite vibrant with a strong musical culture reminiscent of Brazil, Africa and Portugal reflecting the racial make up of the islands.
One cannot help but be a little concerned about the environmental impact of what is clearly planned as the Cape Verde government attempts to attract international tourism with golf courses and swimming pools. There is barely any rainfall, and in the past years have gone by without any rain at all. This means that water for resorts must be produced using desalination plants which in themselves are very energy intensive.
I was also concerned for the local people, particularly in Boa Vista, which only has a population of 7000. It is clear that much of the money from development is being made overseas, or by government employees from the capital, Santiago. In addition to workers from other Cape Verde islands, many from West Africa are coming to man the construction sites and staff the hotels. A number of locals that I spoke to expressed grave reservations about the changes that are happening to this special island which, as a distant extension of the Sahara has 55kms of sand dunes and pristine beach on which turtles lay their eggs.
Pictures above show one of the fantastic beaches on Boa Vista, musicians, the fruit market and a street scene in Mindelo, and the north coast of San Antau.
